Sosta Cucina – North Melbourne

Date: Friday 26th March 2010

Restaurant: Sosta Cucina

Address: 12 Errol Street, North Melbourne

Phone: 03 9329 2882

Commentary : Sarah Andrew

Since opening in 1997, owner

Maurice Santucci

has delivered good, unpretentious Italian food, acknowledging his Northern Italian heritage and respecting seasonal produce from the local market. With this in mind daily additional dishes are on offer in addition to the exciting menu that covers lunch and dinner, Tuesday to Sunday. There is also an early dinner menu called ‘Cucina Povera’ which offers two and three course lunch and early dinner at a very modest price of $25 and $35 depending on number of courses selected.

I have only ever dined here for lunch, so was eager to return and experience not only the ambience at night time but the seasonal menu with autumn upon us. I arrived with two companions around 730pm and found the restaurant full and an energy about the place that was very inviting. We were given a lovely greeting as bags and coats were whisked away and we were guided to our table.

From that point on the evening simply flowed, and our waiter Alberto ensured all our needs were met with flair, charm and a confident delivery of specials and ingredients in certain dishes.

Before arriving at the restaurant I had already decided that I wanted to sample an antipasti or entre (known as primi) and main, and it took me ages to narrow down the selection to one of each. Lucky for me my companions were keen to do the same so we were able to share the first offerings to the table including:

  • Marlin crudo (Carpaccio) – Thinly sliced marlin with Pantelleria capers, shaved radish and lemon infused E.V. olive oil (this was my selection)
  • Insalatina di quaglia con panzanella – Flat grilled confit with a Tuscan salad of tomato, Cerignola olives, fresh basil, wholemeal frisella bread and a mustard fruit dressing
  • Prosciutto di San Daniele e mozzarella di buffalo – San Daniele prosciutto (30g) with fresh buffalo mozzarella and torte fritter

It was great to share the above selection of starters, as each was as different as their ingredients and each awakened my taste buds in a different way. I thoroughly enjoyed all three but was very happy with my ‘lions share’ of Marlin crudo and should mention that the presentation was a piece of art on the plate!

We did not share mains however I can confirm that my companions thoroughly enjoyed their own selections. I opted for the Arrosta del giorno (roast meat of the day) and was served the following:

  • Arrosta del giornomarinated waggu beef cheek in nebbiolo for 3 days, braised at 120 degrees for 6 hours and served with baked semolina gnocchi.

Normally I do not go into such detail as to how a dish was prepared, HOWEVER the beef cheek was so succulent and tender and literally melted in my mouth, that I had to find out what had been done with the meat prior to cooking. The owner Maurice kindly provided me with a hand written note, despite being flat out with a busy evening service.

I was more than willing to sample a grappa at the end of the evening and became so absorbed in Alberto’s description of the different styles that I forgot to write down what I selected. That aside, it was a lovely way to end a great night out.

A little mention of a part of dining out that is not often reviewed are the amenities and I think we all know why. Sosta however deserves a special mention as the toilets (I can only comment on the ladies) rated very highly for me. Lounge music upon entering, fresh flowers, contemporary yet functional facilities, a hook and a chair (for the bag most women carry at all times) and an air of cleanliness.

So when you are next contemplating somewhere to dine in the North Melbourne area consider Sosta cucina. If you are tempted make sure you book as they are very popular and very busy. Ciao!